What is Las Terrenas Like? The DR’s Best Kept Secret Revealed
Las Terrenas is one of the Dominican Republic’s most beautiful places, yet most have never even heard of it. That is exactly what made it so interesting to us in the first place. It’s an off-the-beaten-path destination in the Dominican Republic that deserves some serious attention, though hopefully not the kind that Punta Cana gets. No, this paradise is set aside for the adventurous souls who don’t mind going on a journey to enjoy an authentic Dominican Republic vacation. Las Terrenas will definitely provide that, and is the perfect gateway to exploring the stunning Samana peninsula.
Click below to watch our Las Terrenas travel guide on YouTube.
What is the Samana Peninsula?
The Samana peninsula is an 850-860 sq km piece of land that is part of the island of Hispaniola. It is a mountainous region covered in lush green tropical rainforest. It has natural springs that form small rivers that trickle down into the ocean, creating gorgeous freshwater lagoons with a unique brackish ecosystem.
The coast of the Samana peninsula has a ton of scenic beaches, and they are up there with some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Perhaps the most popular beaches in Samana include Playa Bonita, Playa Punta Popy, Playa Fronton, Playa Rincon, and Playa Moron.
There is a lot of exploring to be had in Samana, and aside from the largest city of Las Terrenas, there are several other smaller towns worth visiting, like Las Galeras, El Limon, and Santa Bárbara de Samaná. In El Salto, you will find one of the peninsula’s most popular attractions, Salto El Limón, which is where you can enjoy a fantastic waterfall tour in the jungle.
Is Las Terrenas Worth Visiting?
Las Terrenas is most certainly worth a visit and is the perfect spot for expats and digital nomads alike. It has everything one would need to be more than comfortable. Being the largest city in Samana, with a population of around 23,000, means that Las Terrenas offers conveniences such as shopping, grocery stores, pharmacies, and even a hospital.
River Las Ballenas in Las Terrenas
How Much Does a Trip to Las Terrenas Cost?
A trip to Las Terranas doesn’t have to be expensive, but one can certainly find some rather luxurious stays if they so choose. During our stay, we stayed in the mid-range in terms of budget. Our Airbnb vacation rental for 4 people cost us $1379 CAD ($1004 USD) ($63300 DOP) for 10-nights was very nice overall. That price included electricity and access to laundry. The condo was at the very end of the main beach road called Francisco Alberto Caamaño Deñó in a complex called Bonita Village. It was amazing and had all that we needed for a perfect vacation. It had a beautiful garden and pool area and was directly across from a beach called Playa Las Ballenas.
Click here to book a stay at Bonita Village in Las Terrenas.
The pool at Bonita Village, Las Terrenas
We rented a golf cart for part of our visit, which was $45 USD per day, and that helped us explore a little better. We were able to find some perfect secluded spots with great parking and barely anybody around. There are plenty of ATV rentals, which are even better for exploring the surrounding areas, but are much more expensive.
Something that saved us a bit of money during our vacation in Las Terrenas was the fact that we didn’t eat out at restaurants very often and chose to go to the local Sirena grocery store to get our food and supplies. Groceries are definitely a little cheaper than in Canada and are very similar to those in Mexico, especially when it comes to buying meat. Alcohol can be pricey and is only slightly cheaper than in Canada, although you can find the occasional sale where you’ll get some cheaper booze. If you are trying to budget or you are in the Dominican Republic for a longer period, then going to the grocery store will certainly stretch your dollar much further.
When you do choose to eat out at restaurants, be sure to look at the reviews on Google and check into what others are saying about the place. Check the menu out and do some currency conversions to be sure that you're not paying way too much for your meals. Also, keep local currency on hand as opposed to having US dollars, as the exchange rates are constantly changing, making it confusing and next to impossible at times to get the proper rates. It also makes you seem like a novice and opens you up to being a target, and if you don’t have live exchange rates, they can essentially make up a number and make you pay more than your meal is even worth.
If you’re in Las Terrenas, for purely relaxation purposes and you’re not planning on doing many tours, then you will certainly be in the more budget-friendly category. But that also depends on your accommodation expenses, and finding a private monthly rental on a place like Facebook Marketplace would probably be your best option.
Overall, I would say that a trip to Las Terrenas could be both budget-friendly and expensive, depending on your requirements and how long you decide to stay. Keep in mind that tourists can only stay in the Dominican Republic for up to 1 month, and then you will be charged an overstay fee of $2,500 DOP for a 1 - 3 month overstay.
The garden area at Bonita Village in Las Terrenas
How to get to Las Terrenas
To get to Las Terrenas, we came from Punta Cana, but others may arrive from the Puerto Plata area, where there is another international airport. After considerable research, we ended up renting a private transfer van to take us from Punta Cana to Las Terrenas (4.5 hours). The reason we chose that mode of transportation is that we had lots of luggage and a mobility walker for my mom, so trying to maneuver all of it through bus terminals would’ve been a pain in the ass, and the thought of connecting in Santo Domingo seemed daunting. So anyway, that ride cost us $377 CAD ($275 USD) ($17300 DOP) and was more than we would’ve liked to pay, but the other options just wouldn’t have worked for us at that time.
The way most travelers will get from Punta Cana to Las Terrenas is by bus, and that will only cost $20 per person, but it will take significantly longer because it will involve a connection in Santo Domingo.
Map of Las Terrenas
Las Terrenas vs. Punta Cana
Comparing Las Terrenas and Punta Cana is, in many ways, like comparing apples to oranges. Both are beach paradises in their own right, but it really depends on your personality, and for us, Las Terrenas was one of those authentic Dominican Republic experiences. It was just on another level in terms of what we would deem a ‘beach paradise’. Now, let’s break down the differences between the two.
Punta Cana
Punta Cana is a gorgeous place, don’t get me wrong, but it reeks of all the things that are bad about commercialization. This is going to sound harsh, but aside from a beautiful beach, nice resorts, and restaurants, Punta Cana really doesn’t have that much to offer, and if I ever do visit the Dominican Republic again, I would try to avoid Punta Cana altogether. But I will say that it does offer convenience with its shopping malls, grocery stores, and really has all that you need for a good time, especially if you are only staying for a week or so.
Punta Cana is very busy and quite expensive compared to the rest of the country, and that is mostly due to its popularity and the increase in demand. People want to visit Punta Cana, and who could blame them? It’s really frickin beautiful at face value.
The traffic is another issue in Punta Cana that makes it a little less desirable. It’s aggressive, it’s pushy, and downright scary at times. I had originally planned to rent a car to get around, and immediately changed my tone when I saw how they drive in Punta Cana. In that same vein, getting from A to B in Punta Cana can be a lot more expensive than in other regions, and I recommend using Uber as much as you can or at least get yourself a reliable taxi service that doesn’t want to price-gouge you. I always suggest looking at Google reviews to get the best service.
The souvenir vendors can sometimes be overwhelming and very persistent. It can get annoying, and you will need to be polite but firm at times, and they will generally leave you be. I should say, as travelers, we have a duty to understand that this world is full of people who have less than, and they are just doing what they need to do to put food on the table. That being said, it is good to leave some room in your luggage for some knick-knacks. If not, just to help out the struggling local people. Of course, you don’t need to just give away money; there are lots of neat things you can acquire on the beaches and storefronts.
Lastly, Punta Cana is absolutely filthy in terms of garbage. There are certain parts of the city where plastic bottles are basically part of the landscaping. It was such a bummer to see such beauty being destroyed by pollution. Like most second and third-world countries, education is seriously needed to tackle this growing garbage problem.
Las Terrenas
Now let’s get to Las Terrenas, the real star of the Dominican Republic and one of our all-time favorite travel destinations. From the moment we arrived on the Samana peninsula, the landscape captivated us, and we knew this was going to be good. From the stunning sea vistas to the towering jungle-covered peaks, this region had good vibes written all over it.
One thing we immediately noticed was the lack of garbage along the highway, and that might not seem like a big deal, but in the Dominican Republic, trash just becomes part of the scenery, so when you don’t see it anymore, you take notice.
The landscape in Las Terrenas is incredible, and every scene is so stunning that you’ll keep your camera working full-time. Backdrops of gorgeous mountains with perfect sandy beaches and turquoise waters in the foreground. Gentle waves lapping as you take your morning stroll, passing but only a few souls on your way. If that doesn’t win you over, think crystal clear lagoons of fresh mountain water pouring out into the ocean, as you'll find at River Las Ballenas or the nearby Coson River.
Coconut trees lining the beach in Las Terrenas
Is Las Terrenas safe for tourists?
Las Terrenas is considered quite safe, with crime usually limited to petty theft, upcharging, and the occasional scammer looking to take advantage of unsuspecting tourists. The people are generally friendly, but also keep to themselves for the most part. A few salesmen are walking the beach and will pull up on an ATV and offer you things like food, drinks, and tours, which can sometimes be a good thing if that’s what you’re looking for. The prices for these services in Las Terrenas will be much lower than in Punta Cana, but still, make sure that you try to barter a bit so you don’t get ripped off. My tip would be to check online for current prices of things so that you have a ballpark figure on how much it should cost.
Things to do in Las Terrenas?
A one-week stay in Las Terrenas is the perfect amount of time to see and do most of what is available in and around town. To explore the Samaná Peninsula's hidden gems thoroughly, you would probably need 2 - 3 weeks or even longer. The Dominican Republic is a decent-sized country, and the peninsula itself is 540 square miles (1,400 sq km) and is bigger than many of the countries in the Caribbean.
Here are some close-by attractions to check out for a week in Las Terrenas:
River Las Ballenas
Playa Punta Popy
Playa Las Ballenas
Playa Coson
Playa Bonita
Coson River
Here are some further attractions in Samana:
Salto El Limon
Playa Moron
Samana Town
Cayo Lavantado (Bacardí Island)
Las Galeras
Playa Fronton
Playa Madama
Playa del Aserradero
Playa El Valle
Caño Frío
Los Haitises National Park
Las Ballenas River in Las Terrenas
Best Beaches in Las Terrenas
There are many great beaches in and around Las Terrenas; in fact, the entire area is essentially one long stretch of beach with small rocky outcroppings breaking it up. The tranquility, the spectacular mountainous scenery, the coconut trees, and the vibrant blue water really make these beaches feel otherworldly.
Playa Las Ballenas
Playa Las Ballenas (Beach of Whales) is basically the main stretch of beach in Las Terrenas, and the one most visitors will find themselves relaxing on. This beach is incredible, of course, and features access to the beautiful River Las Ballenas. The beach also features plenty of palm trees for shade, loungers to rent, and places along the road to park vehicles.
Playa Punta Popy
Well known for being the more lively beach in Las Terrenas, Playa Punta Popy is a great place for families looking to have some beach fun. Here you can listen to some local Dominican music, try some Caribbean food and drinks, and most importantly, go for a swim in the tranquil waters. Lined with tall coconut trees and a backdrop of blue water and white sand, this beach is the perfect place for a photo shoot. There is also a large parking lot for the main part of the beach, and that typically costs 200 pesos for the day.
Other than the two main beaches in town, you can visit the nearby villages and check out Playa Bonita, Playa Escondida, and Playa Coson. All of these beaches are amazing and are well worth a visit.
River Las Ballenas
Be sure to check out River Las Ballenas, located at the end of Playa Las Ballenas. This gorgeous freshwater lagoon is just one of many along the coast of Samana and is an extraordinary example of nature’s beauty. The lagoon will change colours depending on how much it rains in the area, and during our trip, we got to see it change from a dark brown to a mesmerizing, crystal clear jade colour. The jade colour only appears when the rain subsides for several days in a row. It is not recommended to use the lagoon when there are heavy rains, and the water is brown because the runoff can cause the water to be polluted.
A beach bar in Las Terrenas
El Limón Waterfall Tour
Aside from the beaches, the El Limón Waterfall (Salto El Limón) is perhaps the most popular attraction in Samana. A lush jungle trek takes you to a cascading 40 meters (130 feet) falls that form a gorgeous emerald pool of refreshing water. One can either choose to hike on foot or take the horseback tour.
Playa Bonita Surfing
Playa Bonita is not only one of the most beautiful beaches in Las Terrenas, but it is also one of the best surfing spots in the Dominican Republic. Surfboards can be rented, and if you’re a beginner, you can take lessons right at the beach.
Whale Watching Samaná Bay
Whale watching in the Samana Bay is one of the most popular tours to do while visiting Las Terrenas or the town of Samana. Though we never got to do the tour during our visit, for some, this would be an unforgettable experience and a chance to see the North Atlantic humpback whales as they mingle in the bay for mating season.
The official Las Terrenas whale-watching tour season runs from January 15th to March 30th, with February being the most active month. The best whale-watching tours depart in the morning around 9 am and return by early afternoon.
Most of the whale watching tours depart from the Samaná Town (Santa Barbara) pier, which is a 1-hour drive from Las Terrenas. That being said, there are a few whale watching tours that leave from Las Terrenas as well.
Venus with a fresh loaf of coconut bread (pan de coco)
Cost of Living in Las Terrenas
The cost of living in Las Terrenas can vary greatly depending on one’s lifestyle. We found it to be fairly cheap, especially when compared to Punta Cana. This is partly due to the downtown Sirena grocery store, where you can get everything you need for reasonable prices. With that said, we were only there for 10 nights, so our data is definitely limited. By doing some simple research, you will find that the locals and the more budget-friendly expats manage to do pretty well on just $1,200 USD per month, and if you want a slightly more comfortable life, bumping your budget up to $2,000 per month will easily get you there.
If you are renting a place by the month from a private source (meaning not on Airbnb), then you should be able to get a basic 1-bedroom apartment for around $500 - $900 per month. Alternatively, if you’re into a little more luxury and space, you could rent a house or beachfront villa for around $1,000 - $2,500 per month.
When it comes to food, it goes without saying that the more you eat out, the more you eat up your budget. Also, keep in mind that if you like your Canadian and American products, they will typically come at a premium due to importing fees, so learn to love the local products, and you will save yourself a lot of money. But that might not be an issue for those with higher monthly spending allowances. For the budget-conscious person, plan to spend at least $250 per month on your groceries, and if you drink alcohol, this will increase. On the higher end, $500 would have you living really well. If you like eating out at restaurants quite often, then you could add another $150 - $400 to your allowable monthly budget.
There are a lot more variables that factor into the cost of living, and it would be hard to know exactly what you need until you’re there long-term. Keep in mind that you may have extra costs like healthcare, medications, transportation, internet/cell service, and utilities.
Playa Punta Popy in Las Terrenas
Best time to visit Las Terrenas:
The best time to visit Las Terrenas is obviously going to be in the winter months from December to March when the temperatures are more tolerable, and the humidity is lower. Being the tropical paradise that it is, during the summer months, it will get very hot and humid to an almost unbearable point.
To learn more about our entire trip to the Dominican Republic, check out Punta Cana to Puerto Plata: Our Dominican Republic Trip Guide.
